Satani Bat Bi: Rangoon, Burma

Job took me to Burma in early March, and I spent the bookends of the trip sightseeing and exploring in Rangoon.  Having spent the better part of grad school organizing events on campus about Burma, volunteering to mail fundraising letters about Burma, writing research papers on the environmental destruction and human rights abuses in Burma, and protesting outside the Burmese Embassy in DC - it was actually beyond wild to finally be in the country that is now my next-door neighbor.

The flight over was composed of about 25% hippie backpackers, 25% business-type folks, and 50% retired-age European travelers.  Quite an amusing mix.  It was such a short flight, just about an hour, and I could hardly believe it when the captain announced we were on our initial descent to Rangoon.  I wanted to jump up and start screaming to everyone "CAN YOU GUYS BELIEVE IT??? We're FINALLY GOING TO BE IN BURMA!! THIS IS SO WILD!  HOW LONG HAVE YOU WAITED?"  What a buzzkill to look around and see most people sleeping (granted, it was 8:40 in the morning).

I grabbed a taxi from the airport and gave him my hotel's name.  I was just in awe on the drive in to the city.  Cars like in other countries. Streets like in other countries. People like in other countries. BUT WE'RE IN BURMA! Oh, I can't explain it.  There was just something magical about being let in to the country (for work, no less) and to see this veiled country that has fascinated me for so long.  I still don't think I can believe it.  But, I digress.

I suppose at this point it'd be good to cover a few oddities of traveling to Burmese that helped make planning quite lively.  The currency, Burmese kyat (pronounced "jot") is not allowed outside of the country; you must exchange currency once you've entered the country.  Fair enough.  But do you get money from an ATM?  Oh no.  The preferred method of currency exchange is extremely crisp, pristine $100 USD bills, post-2003 (big face design).  They can have no marks, no smudges, no tears.  ABSOLUTELY crisp.  I picked up an assortment of smaller bills as well (also immaculately clean) and with one of those $10, paid for the cab to the hotel.  For the purpose of communication - just forget having a working phone.  Our colleagues had insisted that ordering roaming on my Blackberry would work.  I indulged them, but no, it definitely does not.  You can only buy a SIM card (at a hugely exorbitant cost) to use in a local phone.  It's just not worth it.  And despite recent moves to open the country, it's safe to assume every time you use a computer, your usage/accounts are monitored.

On to the adventure! I dropped off my bags, and headed downtown.  Lonely Planet has a decent walking tour marked in their book, and thanks to the colonialism of the Brits, streets are dual-marked in Burmese and English.  Getting around was also really easy since the layout of the downtown area follows a grid pattern similar to Washington, DC (my previous residence).  The Bogyoke Market was my starting place, and I set off to the east.  I think I've mentioned this before, but one of my favorite ways to explore a new area is just to walk around, chat with people, and soak up the atmosphere.  I didn't take any photos for the first hour or so, still thinking that kind of thing wasn't allowed!  Finally got over that and just started snapping.

This pagoda was in the middle of an intersection, making a traffic circle go around the structure:

Burma has long had an underground book scene - and now it's out in the open!

Had to get my fortune told - apparently blue is my lucky color, 5 is my lucky number, and I won't die in a car crash.  Good to know.

Block after block, I kept finding this massive old British colonial buildings. While I could sleuth out the origins of some, others were a mystery.  What was it built for? Is it still used? Anyone home?

On the riverfront is Strand Road.  The famous Strand Hotel & Lounge was a few blocks away (apparently a true colonial relic) - but I'm hoping to make it back with my honey and wanted to save that exploration for the two of us.

This young lady was painting in front of Bogyoke Market - family/friends you may find yourself gifted with one of these come the next holiday/birthday! The light yellow powder on her face is thanaka - a sandalwood paste used as sunscreen and makeup.

The hotel I stayed at was near a lovely lake, and I caught a few snaps as the sun rose before leaving:

After a full week in other parts of the country, I returned to Rangoon for one more day.  I woke up bright and early, with the main goal of the day to experience Shwedagon Pagoda.  Shwedagon is believed to be 2600 years old, making it the oldest Buddhist pagoda in Burma and throughout the world. There are four entrances, corresponding with compass directions.  Once inside, there are eight devotional areas depending on the day one was born (Wednesday is split in two, for AM births and PM births).

I find pagodas and wats to be just the most peaceful places ever. When I went to Chiang Mai in 2007, and climbed the stairs to Wat Doi Suthep, I remember just walking around in a trance, struck by the beauty and craftsmanship, and peace and sincerity of everyone around me - and yet also totally oblivious to the fact there were other people there.  Just a magical place, really.

A pagoda worker was gathering up the overflow of offerings - flowers, candles, paper garlands, incense, you name it.

This is Tuesday's area.  You'll note attached to the light pole, there is a small surveillance camera.  Daw Aung San Suu Kyi was also born on a Tuesday, and during the years she wasn't under house arrest and could freely travel here, the camera captured all her movements.

A close up of Tuesday:

Such intricate detail work EVERYWHERE....sigh

After a few hours...I kinda lost track... it was time to mosey onward and see a few more sights before my afternoon flight.  But to transition from this peaceful sanctuary to the noise and rush of downtown? No, a buffer was in order.  Enter People's Park:

I don't know if it translates by looking at this picture, but it was quite a humid day.  I was wearing an ankle length skirt (something I don't know if I've EVER done) and long sleeves (per appropriate pagoda-wear), and it was HOT.

Love, actually, is all around:

The yellow just kinda jumps out here, I dig it.

Hopped in a taxi and off to the market.  First stop was an art gallery which had caught my eye previously.  However being so early in my trip, I didn't want to buy anything that I'd have to haul around all week.  But with my flight now a few hours away, I was ready to shop!

Bogyoke Market:

Outside the gallery looks shabby...

 But inside is light & color!

Here's the one I bought!  Since I can't very well take this gorgeous painting on the plane, he took the staples out of the canvas-wrapped wooden frame, then rolled it up in a carry-on tube.  Perfect!  I'm getting it re-framed here in BKK tomorrow - I'll share a picture when it's restored to its glory.


A sweet purchase made, and ready for a sweet drink.  This stand was rad - fresh squeezed cane juice.  Under the green cloth were lengths of sugar cane, about two feet each.  The juiceman would run the cane through the green machine, turning the wheel, and as the juice flowed out it was caught in the metal tray and filled up my drink! Add a little fresh lemon and it was perfect.

One last Burmese classic on the trip outta town - Betel Nut. These stands were everywhere.  Betel nut is chewed by pretty much everyone in Burma and leaves a delightful red stain on the lips and mouth (and black stain on the teeth) after prolonged use.  The palm-sized betel nut leaves (stacked neatly to the left) are dabbed with some of the limestone paste, then thin slices of dried betel nut are added and the leaf pouch is rolled up.  From the few folks I talked to, the idea is just to put the whole pouch of nut/leaf/limestone in your mouth and start chewing, as you would tobacco dip.

It produces a mild euphoric effect, but also reportedly quells hunger, can be a pain-killer, and eases tension.  From our friends at Drug Info Australia, "Around 10 to 20% of the world's population chews betel nut in some form. This makes it the 4th most widely-used psychoactive substance, after nicotine, alcohol and caffeine." 

The chewer occasionally (frequently) spits out the excessive saliva created, and if you didn't know better, it would look like someone is spitting out blood.

I suppose that's a colorful note to end this post.  I really loved Burma, and can't WAIT to go back on a personal trip and visit Bagan, Inle Lake, Mandalay - anywhere they'll let me go!